3 perfect days in Los Angeles

It’s true, Hollywood put Los Angeles on the map, but you likely already know that there’s far more to the star-studded city. For some, the appeal is the fantastic food. For others, it’s the world-class museums. And some are lured by the sunny SoCal beaches.

I lived in LA, then left, and now visit as often as I can. And surprisingly, I love to explore the city most as a tourist. So, I’ve put together a three-day itinerary that hits as many highlights as you can fit into such a short stay, incorporating personal favorites and real Tripadvisor traveler reviews. To make your visit as convenient as possible, I’ve minimized cross-city drives (LA traffic is no joke) by keeping each day’s activities to a specific area or neighborhood.

If you’ve landed at LAX airport, Venice Beach is just seven miles up the road. Pick up your rental car, then start your day with breakfast at Gjusta, a Venice institution that’s part deli, bakery, café, and market. Flight delayed? Don’t worry—the breakfast menu is served until 2:30 p.m. and includes favorites like shakshuka, breakfast burritos, and salmon roe bagels.

Then, burn off your breakfast with a stroll around the tranquil Venice canals. Picture Italy’s famed waterways but lined with California bungalows instead of centuries-old palazzos. When you’re ready for some good people-watching, make your way to the Venice Beach Boardwalk, where street performers, fitness junkies, and vendors make their rounds.

By late morning, the shops on Abbot Kinney Boulevard will be open. Some of my go-to boutiques are Brazilian fashion brand Farm Rio; Detroit-based accessories store Shinola; and the Brooklyn perfumery D.S. & Durga. (Sorry, LA, you can’t take the New York out of a girl!)

In keeping with the day’s beach theme, make your way up the coast to see some of the dramatic landscapes along the Pacific Coast Highway. Just outside the city, the Santa Monica Mountains begin to rise, creating the waterfront cliffs for which this stretch of highway is known.

When hunger strikes, stop for a seafood-heavy lunch at Broad Street Oyster Company in Malibu. Or, if you can hold out a little longer, I recommend driving all the way out to Neptune’s Net roadside diner, which is kitschy—in the best way possible. Order a signature sourdough bread bowl filled with clam chowder, and wash it down with a michelada.

Once you’re done, turn around and head back toward LA, stopping at some of the scenic spots (Zuma Beach, Point Dume, Malibu Pier) along the way. Need to stretch your legs? This region is a hiker’s heaven, with trails for all skill levels. Some moderate three-mile options include Solstice Canyon, a loop with spectacular views; Escondido Falls, an out-and-back trail that ends at a mossy waterfall; and Temescal Canyon, which locals frequently bring friends and family.

Stop in Santa Monica at golden hour to see the sunset from the iconic Santa Monica Pier. Yes, it’s a tourist attraction, but it does have some historical value—it’s the end of Route 66, and there’s a sign at the pier to prove it. While you’re here, walk around the amusement park and grab some cotton candy or funnel cake. When in Rome, right?

Now, let’s talk about dinner as there are a slew of options. Big Dean’s Ocean Front Cafe is a laid-back sports bar with indoor and outdoor seating. The meals are nothing fancy—get a burger and a beer—and chat up your neighbor at the bar. The Golden Bull chophouse is an unpretentious Santa Monica classic, with ridiculously good steaks. Slide into a leather booth, order a cocktail to start, then grab your knife and dig in. For something a little more upscale, try Cassia’s creative Southeast Asian fare.

In the mood for a nightcap? The Chestnut Club is the place for cocktails, but be warned—flip-flops, shorts, and baseball caps are prohibited. If you’re wearing any of those, head for The GasLite instead. This is less of a see-and-be-seen kind of spot and more of a local watering hole, with free popcorn on the tables and karaoke all night long.

Otherwise, you can’t go wrong at the Getty Center, a masterpiece of modern architecture filled with art dating back to the Middle Ages. The gardens and skyline views are worth a visit alone. Just be aware, it usually takes a few hours to browse the collection at this massive complex, and even then you might not see it all. Arrive early to hit the highlights before the crowds.

If you choose to visit the Getty today, fuel up at nearby Coral Tree Cafe, known for its healthy (but delicious) breakfasts. Don’t miss the Mediterranean toast, which pairs avocado with harissa, labneh, chickpeas, and Valbreso feta. And if you need a sweet treat after, the pastries are worth the extra calories. I was taught that you should never see art on an empty stomach, so I take my pre-museum meals seriously!

There are two options this afternoon: First up is a shopping spree at the ultra-luxe Rodeo Drive. This iconic street—really, a whole district rather than just a single stretch—is ideal for window shopping and people-watching. Keep an eye on the road, as you’ll probably see some flashy cars drive by.

Next, make your way to the Beverly Hills Hotel. The Polo Lounge is the king of power lunches (think: martinis, caviar, and crab cakes) while the alfresco Cabana Cafe will give you a peek at the hotel’s glam pool. If neither of those are calling your name, head to the basement to grab a bite at the Fountain Coffee Room, a retro 1950s-style counter.

If you’re a normal person like me—y’know, who actually has a budget—the Westfield Century City mall is a worthy alternative. This isn’t your local mall from the ’90s—it’s a full-on destination, featuring a palm-fringed “oasis” with a reflecting pool and fire pit. For lunch, check out the mall’s outpost of Din Tai Fung, a popular Taiwanese chain. The xiao long bao soup dumplings are a must. For a sit-down meal, head across the street to Fairmont Century Plaza, where you’ll find French brasserie Lumière. The niçoise salad is a perfect light dish while the croque madame satisfies a brunch itch. I love that most of Lumière’s antique decor was sourced from France.

West Hollywood, or WeHo, is the beating heart of Los Angeles’ nightlife. That’s half because it’s technically a standalone city—bars are allowed to stay open until 4 a.m. here while last call is 2 a.m. in LA proper—and half because it’s a major LGBTQ+ hub.

Whether or not you plan on staying out all night, you can’t miss dinner. For something splurge-worthy, snag a reservation at Sushi Ginza Onodera, a two-Michelin-star omakase restaurant with just two nightly seatings at its 16-chair counter. The price: a cool $400 per person. For a wallet-friendly meal, old-school Italian joint Dan Tana’s has you covered.

Thirsty? I suggest starting at one of the rooftop bars found all throughout WeHo. They’re usually calmer after dinner. Take in the twinkling city lights from E.P. & L.P. or The Roof at The West Hollywood EDITION. As the night progresses, things will get, shall we say, livelier. Skybar at Mondrian Los Angeles has electric DJs sets, and if you keep partying, there’s a very good chance you’ll find your way to Hi Tops, Stache, or Schmitty’s—or all three—for some late-night revelry. After bar-hopping, soak up the alcohol with a 4 a.m. snack at NORMS 24-hour diner.

Brace yourself—it’s time to venture into the Valley. Your first stop is the legendary Porto’s Bakery and Cafe in Burbank. There will likely be a line out the door, but it’s worth the wait for the best Cuban pastries in town. Then, it’s off to learn about the magic of movie-making just down the street on the Warner Bros. Studio Tour. This is by far the best studio tour in LA, as you’ll wander around the active Warner Bros. backlot to see the exterior sets from dozens if not hundreds of films and shows, from Gilmore Girls and Friends to The Dark Knight and Gremlins. The tour usually includes a visit to a soundstage, too, though this depends on the shows’ filming schedules. (Tip: You’re less likely to get onto a soundstage during weekday working hours, since that’s when most filming takes place.) As a former Burbank resident, I took the tour no fewer than five times in a single year—and I saw something new on each one.

Afterward, climb the hills on the Eastside to Griffith Observatory for a direct view of the Hollywood sign—and a panorama of LA, all the way to the Pacific. You can park at the bottom of Griffith Park in Los Feliz and hike to the top, or you can drive up and cross your fingers for a parking space.

Wondering why I skipped the Hollywood Walk of Fame? Well, it feels a little like Times Square. It’s a bit dirty, and it’s always packed with people, day and night. But if you really want to go, I recommend looking up the locations of specific stars in advance to maximize your time.

Downtown LA has mixed reputations—have you heard of the Cecil Hotel?—but there’s no denying the fact that the neighborhood is an arts hub and an architecture lover’s paradise. Visit The Broad to see an extraordinary collection of modern and contemporary art, including Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room—The Souls of Millions of Light Years Away. (Reservations are required for entry.) And don’t forget to look at the structure itself. The building’s unique perforated form was designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro.

Cross the street to see another impressive sight: the Walt Disney Concert Hall by Frank Gehry. On select Sundays, you can catch a matinee performance by the Los Angeles Philharmonic, otherwise you can book a self-guided tour to explore the facility. And for a bit of movie history, make your way to the Bradbury Building, a filming location for Blade Runner and (500) Days of Summer, among numerous other films. Though it’s an active office building, visitors are welcome on the ground floor of the atrium, which is lined with intricate ironwork.

Now, what to eat for lunch? The most popular spot is Grand Central Market, where food vendors have been hawking their dishes since 1917. Just to the north, Little Tokyo is a little more under-the-radar. Stop at Daikokuya for ramen or Rice & Nori for onigiri.

On your final evening, I propose a smorgasbord of Eastside fun. Dine and drink around Los Feliz, Silver Lake, and Echo Park, each of which has a walkable stretch of restaurants and bars. You can even stroll between the neighborhoods’ main thoroughfares via Sunset Boulevard if you’re an ambitious New Yorker like me, though most LA locals will be quick to call a cab.

If there’s one LA staple you need to try before you leave, it’s tacos. Swing by Simón in Silver Lake and El Ruso #1 in Echo Park for traditional food truck fare. If I had to pick a personal favorite, I’d choose Guisados in Echo Park, a Mexican chain known for its sampler platters (yes, I know this is a controversial take, but let me enjoy my chorizo tacos and horchata!).

The cool kids mingle in this area—join them for cocktails at Bar Flores in Echo Park or Tiki-Ti in Los Feliz, or mingle over a glass of wine at The Ruby Fruit, a “sapphically-inclined” wine bar. Then, hit the dance floor at dive bar The Short Stop in Echo Park or gay bar Akbar in Los Feliz.