Weekend in Montreal: ice rinks, festivals, and global eats

If your start to the year has been all winter and no wonderland, we have the solution. Head to Montreal, where they know how to do the winter season, from outdoor festivals to ice skating rinks (everywhere!) to cozy restaurants where you can warm up with a big plate of poutine.

“In winter, yes, it’s freezing. But it’s not like New York snow that turns into slush—it’s a beautiful, crystalline snow that makes everything glimmer,” says Mary-Dailey Desmarais, chief curator at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, who moved here from NYC 10 years ago and hasn’t looked back. “It’s also a very romantic city, and if you don’t want to go all the way to Europe to have a French experience, you should really come to Montreal.”

Another thing going for Montreal—while it might feel worlds away, this Canadian metropolis is closer than you think. If the traffic gods are in your favor, it’s about a five-and-a-half-hour drive from New York City or a quick 45-minute flight.

Paul Toissaint was born and raised in Haiti, but he moved here in 2010. He was lured by the global POV and the buzzing food scene. “This is the biggest multicultural city in North America,” he says. “You can ‘travel’ to every country. If you want to eat Chinese cuisine, Thai, Vietnamese—all the cultures—they’re well represented.” Toussaint has two restaurants at Time Out Market Montreal, a massive food hall with six bars, a cooking academy, and 15 eateries serving up every flavor you can think of, from Arabic to Indian.

And just to show how much this city loves winter, Montreal also hosts a series of events created specifically for the season, from Nuit Blanche (when the city stays up all night) to Igloofest (a chilled-out electronic dance party). But the most dazzling of them all is Montreal en Lumiere—a festival of lights that transforms the landscape into a glittering snowglobe. The festival kicks off on February 22 with culinary programming curated by Julie Martel, who shares what she loves about this season and this city: “Winter is part of who we are, it’s part of our cultural identity, and it’s unique in the world. Last year, for example, we welcomed a lot of chefs from Scandinavian countries, and they all said that we were crazy to do a festival like this during the winter. But you can feel the heat in the Montreal winter. I can guarantee that.”

As she says, the heat is on, so we’re headed to Montreal for a cool WeekEnder escape.

From historic stays to luxe towers to cool boutique finds, the hotel choices are endless in Montreal. Here’s a small sampling of top spots.

Opened in 1858, this is the grand dame of Montreal’s hotel scene, but it stays up with the times. The property just opened the Barbie Dream Suite, which is (naturally) splashed out in pink. And a fun fact: “It’s where the song ‘Give Peace a Chance’ was written by Yoko Ono and John Lennon,” says Martel.

It doesn’t get more glam than this luxe 18-story tower on the city’s Golden Square Mile—and the food is pretty fabulous, too, courtesy of celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson, who runs the in-house restaurant. “I love the Four Seasons—the food and cocktails are so good,” says Toussaint.

Located on a charming cobblestone street just steps from the Old Port, this converted bank now feels more like a 19th century mansion. Think, The Gilded Age by way of Canada—perfect for a romantic escape.

The Monville’s sleek public spaces are filled with contemporary art like photographs by Canadian filmmaker Valerie Jodoin Keaton, but the star of the show is the rooftop terrace, with its stunning city views. Martel also loves the friendly staff and “the beautiful restaurant.”

When Toussaint needs to stay in the city for a work event, this is his go-to. “I love it—it’s always a good experience,” he says. And thanks to its year-round heated rooftop pool, this boutique stay is a hit with all ages.

With its design-forward spaces, including a lobby that feels more like an art gallery, the Humaniti will take over your Instagram feed. And there’s a feel-good factor: It’s LEED-certified, with no single-use plastics on site.

You already know that Montreal has a first-rate food scene. Here’s a bonus: The prices are reasonable (even more so with the exchange rate).

Arthurs Nosh Bar – The syrniki (cottage cheese) pancakes at Arthurs have a cult following. “I don’t know what their recipe is—it’s a secret—but there’s always a line outside to eat their pancakes, topped with the maple syrup that we’re known for in Quebec,” says Martel.

Fairmount Bagel – “You can’t say this to New Yorkers, but Montreal bagels are better,” says Martel. And this is one of the top places to get them. “It’s got a very small counter and you cannot eat there, so you just order your bagel and then you can wander around the surrounding neighborhood, Mile End, which is artistic and hip.”

Bivouac – The menu is local and seasonal at this high-design restaurant. “The fish of the day is always great, especially if they have arctic char or halibut,” says Martel. “Pair it with a glass of Seyval blanc wine from Quebec.”

Schwartz’s – A Jewish immigrant from Romania founded this deli in 1928, and according to Toussaint, it’s been “the place for smoked meat” ever since.

Campo – You could call poutine—fries loaded with cheese, gravy, and more—Canada’s national comfort food. Toussaint says it’s hard to pick the best, but this downtown Portuguese fast-food restaurant is his favorite spot. (There’s also an outpost at Time Out Market Montreal.)

Time Out Market Montreal – The team behind Time Out Montreal curated this market that brings together every flavor you can think of: Beirut-style Lebanese cuisine at Mezzmiz, Delhi-style biryani at Le Taj, Philly-style hoagies at Bossa. Toussaint’s Americas BBQ grills up all kinds of barbecue, from Montreal’s very own smoked meat to Argentinian asado, while his other restaurant here—Paul Toussaint—serves food from the Caribbean (including his native Haiti). And there’s plenty of indoor seating, so you don’t have to hunch over your food finds on the curb.

Okeya Kyujiro – Put your taste buds in the hands of the very capable sushi masters at this omakase restaurant. “It’s a great experience—very Japanese,” says Martel.

Helena – Montreal has a thriving Portuguese community, and this is where you can get a taste of it. “It’s run by a Portuguese woman who has been in Quebec forever, and her food is amazing, especially the sardines and the cod fritters,” says Martel.

Gia Vin & Grill – “I love wine bars, and Gia is one of the best. You can order a lot of different plates and taste good wine by the glass, like a new orange wine or natural wine,” says Martel.

Annette – Another wine bar that’s high on Martel’s list. “Go and grab a glass of very good wine (great wine list) and order small plates of food to share. The design of the place is beautiful,” she says.

Le Majestique – When Toussaint wants a low-key meal, he makes a beeline to Le Majestique for seafood, oysters, and craft cocktails.

Vin Mon Lapin – “More and more young chefs are opening creative, innovative restaurants in residential neighborhoods, like this charming spot,” says Martel. The menu changes often, but look for heart-warming French- and Italian-inspired dishes like roasted shallot strùdel served with bone marrow or pappardelle with pork ragout and chestnuts.

Mastard – Local grand-meres have some competition with this chef-run restaurant. “Simon Mathys, the chef, plays with the culinary traditions of Quebec,” says Martel. “So he can take something basic that my grandmother used to do but turn it into something very gastronomic. He also does amazing stuff with root vegetables.”

Au Pied de Cochon – Does poutine topped with foie gras sound tempting? We think so, too. Martin Picard’s cozy Quebecois restaurant is a legend for good reason.

Who cares if it’s below zero? Montrealers know how to dial up the fun factor in winter. Check out these seasonal events and outdoor activities.

Montreal en Lumiere – One of the largest winter festivals in the world pulls out all the stops with 100 free cultural activities throughout the city, a massive ice skating rink double the size of Rockefeller Center—complete with ice that lights up where you skate—culinary events, and more. The food part starts on February 22, and everything else rolls out on February 29 and goes through March 10.

Nuit Blanche – Calling all night owls. On March 2, Montreal stays up late for this all-night festival with poetry, visual arts, dance, music, comedy, film, and more.

Igloofest – We love this one for the name alone: It’s literally the coolest music festival ever, with electronic music acts from around the globe from January 18 to February 10.

Esplanade Tranquille – There are skating rinks all over Montreal in winter, but this spot in the heart of the Quartier des Spectacles is one of the best. Rink-side cafes and a restaurant give a spot to warm up after a spin on the ice.

Mount Royal Park – Looking to go snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, or sledding? Head to this sprawling park designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, who also created New York’s Central Park.

La Grande Roue de Montreal – The largest Ferris wheel in Canada is open year-round with heated compartments and killer views of the city.

“For people who enjoy the arts, Montreal is a truly fantastic city,” says Desmarais. “Even people who aren’t arts professionals or artists themselves take pride in the artistic and cultural output of the city.” Here’s where to plug into the city’s creative side.

Montreal Museum of Fine Arts – One of the oldest museums in North America, this institution is always on the vanguard. “We want to create new ways of thinking about art and its history with an innovative program that is out of the box,” says Desmarais. Where else can you take “wild and wacky” family art workshops or hear German chamber music in the galleries? The big upcoming Georgia O’Keeffe and Henry Moore show brings together two of the world’s most celebrated 20th century artists.

Arsenal Art Contemporain Montreal – In the up-and-coming Griffintown district, a pair of industrial buildings now showcases large-scale contemporary artworks, like an enormous plaster tree or van Gogh video projections.

Edifice Belgo – This 1912 downtown department store has been transformed into a gallery space where you can meet the artists and see them at work.

Oasis Immersion – Immersive digital art experiences are all the rage, but this collab with National Geographic takes it to a whole new level, showcasing the biodiversity and beauty of the planet.

For those who need a little spa or retail therapy on their winter getaway, Montreal delivers.

Bota Bota – A ferry boat docked in the Old Port of Montréal has been transformed into a mod spa with indoor and outdoor hot tubs, indulgent treatments (hot-shell massage, anyone?), and more.

Scandinave Spa Vieux-Montreal – With its menu of massages, as well as dry saunas and cold plunges, this Scandinavian-inspired spa is a serene escape for winter wellness.

Strom Spa Nordique – It’s worth the quick detour to Nuns’ Island to check out this architecturally stunning space with barrel saunas, hot pools, steam areas, and toasty napping rooms, plus a restaurant serving up nourishing Scandi bites.

Ruse Boutique – The hip Mile End district has tons of vintage clothing boutiques—and this is Martel’s favorite. “It also showcases local designers,” she says.

Jean-Talon Market – This year-round farmer’s market has been serving up farm-fresh bites—local jam, maple syrup—since 1933. “I just love Jean-Talon Market—this is where I get my groceries every week,” says Martel.