The best part of eating alone? You don’t need to share.
My solo trip at a glance:
Biggest fear was: Staying COVID-free
Why I wanted to go:
During the pandemic, I put all my international travel plans on pause. And even as the world started to reopen, I was cautious. But when I had a chance to fly to Tel Aviv for work last year, I extended my layover in Istanbul on the way home. It felt like just the place to get my travel groove back, in part because I had visited a couple of times before and wouldn’t feel the pressure to fit in every major site. Plus, the timing worked out perfectly. I was also grateful to visit during the summer—my favorite season to travel solo, as the days are longer and it feels like everyone is a bit friendlier.
How I balanced spontaneity with planning:
I’m a planner at heart but when I schedule an itinerary for every day of a trip, I feel completely boxed in. I miss the most memorable moments (like unexpectedly spending an hour chatting with a spice seller). For me, the perfect balance is having my hotel booked and a slew of places I’d like to visit starred on a map. As for restaurants, I will usually make a few reservations several weeks in advance. Specifically for this trip, I found it rarely necessary as a solo diner.
The people I met:
One of my favorite things to do before a trip is to reach out to a local food writer and ask them out for coffee or tea; this time around, I met Tuba Şatana, of Sapor Istanbul Food Symposium, for a lunch of kebabs and tender eggplant at Mahir Lokantası. I’ve found that if you’re passionate about a subject—almost any subject—and you reach out to others who are, they’re often eager to connect.
I also met a local designer on a ferry when I asked him about his bag. We quickly bonded and a few days later, we met up at Güllüoğlu, a legendary pastry shop for baklava and tea. Nearly a year and a half later, we’re still in touch.
If I have only one solo-travel tip, it’s this:
If the situation feels right, don’t hesitate to chat with people you don’t know. If the dish they’re eating looks great, ask what it is. If they’re shopping for a spice you’re unfamiliar with, ask how they use it in their cooking. Some won’t be interested in chatting, but others will gladly welcome a conversation.
How I kept costs at bay:
Istanbul is a fairly affordable city if you’re used to New York City prices, so I didn’t feel overly restricted at nice restaurants. There were unexpected savings too—at Yeni Lokanta, a generous owner sent over a glass of wine when he saw I was by myself. Given the city’s affordability, I did splurge on the accommodations. A friend recommended Room Mate Emir, a boutique hotel just off the always-jumping pedestrian street İstiklal Caddesi. After shopping around for the best price, I ultimately booked it for about $155 a night.
The times when I felt safe/unsafe:
I always feel safest when there are lots of other people around and that’s usually the case in central Istanbul. Even when I had to walk from the airport shuttle stop to my hotel at 2 a.m., there were plenty of people milling about. When I came home late one night from dinner in a more residential neighborhood, I opted for an Uber and shared my location with a friend so she could make sure I got home safely. And I always carry a small power bank when I’m on the road, so I never have to worry about running out of battery.
What I learned about myself:
I’ve traveled solo quite a bit and initially, it took some time to sort out the mechanics of how to plan a trip when there’s no one to bounce ideas around with. But each time I travel alone now, I enjoy being reminded that I am capable of making my own fun and finding my way.
My Istanbul cheat sheet:
Eat:
- The Kadıköy Çarşı is a daily market on a cluster of small pedestrian streets and is home to restaurants, spice stalls, produce shops, bakeries, and more.
- At lunchtime, head to Çiya Sofrası, where Musa Dağdeviren—featured in Chef’s Table—serves traditional recipes he’s collected from across Turkey.
- For a swank evening, head to the rooftop bar at Mikla at sunset and then to nearby Yeni Lokanta for modern takes on traditional Turkish cuisine. Just be sure to make a reservation for dinner.
Play:
- Get a scrub at The Kılıc Ali Pasa Hamam. The staff will walk you through the process and welcome you to rest afterwards with a local fruit drink in hand. Even as a solo visitor, it’s best to make a reservation a few days ahead.
Stay:
- Room Mate Emir Hotel’s pink lobby is wacky but stylish, and the modern rooms are sprawling. Bonus: The soaking tubs are perfect after a long day.
