One of the most iconic villages in Italy, Positano is the quintessential stop on an Amalfi Coast tour. A true vertical town confined by craggy hills and the Tyrrhenian Sea, there are just 4,000 year-round residents and an average of 12,000 visitors a day during peak season, so planning ahead is key. Make those restaurant reservations in advance, find your inner calm among the crowds (or visit in shoulder season), be prepared to blow the budget, and don’t miss buying some essential Positano souvenirs.
This guide is your evergreen cheat sheet to making the most of your 24 hours in Positano. Our picks are vetted and seconded with real TripAdvisor reviews, all highlighted and linked below, so you know which seaside restaurant has the best view, where to book the sunset boat ride along the coast, and why many travelers think the hilltop views are even better at night. Read on for your perfect day in Positano.
MORNING Getting your espressos and steps in before lunch
Most travelers who visit for the day come from nearby destinations like Amalfi and Naples and that means an early start and a coffee stop on arrival. So make your way to sunny Casa e Bottega for the all-important doppio espresso, plus seasonal sandwiches, pastries, and fresh juices. The cafe’s elevated position is a prime perch for your first peek at the Tyrrhenian Sea and the winding staircases that run through Positano.
Fully caffeinated, plan on a stroll past Positano’s pastel-colored buildings and steep steps between Via Vecchia and Via Monte. It’s close to impossible to get lost here (when in doubt, follow the crowds), so ditch the map app and follow your nose downhill for a stop at the beautiful Church of Santa Maria Assunta. There are views of the dark pebble beach from the wide steps of the chapel, but the real treats are the restored frescoes and 13th-century statuettes inside.
Travelers say: “This is a lovely church in Positano with a tiled domed. The exterior of the church is simple except for the fabulous tiled-dome that is easliy viewed from the beach below. There is a separate bell tower. The interior is very impressive, and there are lovely views of the beach area from the side chapel. We enjoyed our short visit inside.” —@Keith70
- Learn how to make pasta and tiramisu with the pros on a small-group cooking class with local chef, Cesarine.
- Take to the water in a traditional Amalfitan boat on a half-day sailing tour with a maximum of 10 people. Discover local beaches and quiet snorkeling spots without the crowds.
- Combine a hike and dinner in the care of an expert local guide and gourmand on this three-and-a-half-hour tour of Positano’s most beautiful hilltop vistas and prized culinary traditions.
AFTERNOON Beach time and boat adventures
Back at sea level, it’s almost time to hit the lounger, but first, lunch. At the far end of Positano’s main beach, Spiaggia Grande, Rada Beach Bistrot is a sanctuary for people watching and pasta eating, set in a distinctive dining room that’s carved into the cliffside. Don’t miss the seafood-tasting plate or Vongole all Positano.
After lunch, it’s time for Positano’s main event: lounging under one of the sunset-colored umbrellas on black, pebbly Positano Spiaggia. There’s a fee for the rental, but it’s worth it to live out the quintessential Amalfi activity and snap a selfie with a Positano backdrop. For a quieter beach experience, Fornillo is a ten-minute walk away along the seafront.
By early afternoon, pack up and head over to Blue Star Boat Tours (opposite the ever-popular Chez Black restaurant) for a small-group sunset cruise with no more than 12 fellow seafarers. The 33-foot boat travels at a gentle pace along the coastline so you can soak up the Amalfi landscape, all while sipping Prosecco or your soft drink of choice. Ask the captain about stopping for a quick snorkel and swim in the gin-clear Tyrrhenian Sea before heading back into Positano as the sun sets behind you.
Travelers say: “This was the most amazing experience my fiance and I have ever had! Fiorenzo was a great skipper and tour guide. We would take this tour again and again if we could. We highly recommend this boat tour!!! Amazing for the price.” —@Gabby H
EVENING Dinner at the top of Positano
End your day with dinner at the highest point in Positano at Rifugio dei Mele, a 20-minute shuttle ride (included in your dinner reservation) from the beach, followed by a five-minute ascent up your last set of steps for the day. The reward is a sparkling evening view across the Bay of Positano, all lit up by the houses that cling to the cliffs and boats anchored in the bay. The menu is a feast for carnivores, but also features a fresh catch of the day and homemade pastas. Ask for a table on the terrace and cheers to an action-packed day in Positano.
Know Before You Go
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You can expect the best weather from May to September and the worst crowds in July and August. If you do travel during peak season, plan to do any sightseeing early in the day and make your restaurant, tour, and beach chair reservations well in advance. November to March can be cold and damp in this coastal setting, and many shops and restaurants close for the winter, but you’ll be able to hike the coastal trails without the summer heat or crowds. Early October is the sweet spot Goldilocks time to visit: not too hot or cold, and not too busy or closed down for the season.
Dallas summers are hot and long, with temperatures in the upper 90s and low 100s starting in mid-to-late May. But time your visit to late March or April and you can expect pleasant weather (albeit with the occasional thunderstorm or hail). Fall is also a good time to visit—the State Fair of Texas begins in late September and runs through October, right as temperatures start to cool.
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Outside of the winter months, most shops and restaurants are open from around 12:00 p.m., seven days a week. Of course, weekends are always busiest, so if you have flexibility, choose your day trip for a weekday.
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You can expect the small cafes along the beaches and narrow streets to open from 9:00 a.m., and shops and restaurants from around 12 p.m. The various private beach clubs largely open at 10 a.m. and close by 7 p.m. when most visitors head for cocktails and dinner.
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Positano: If your day trip turns into an overnight stay, know there are many hotel options in Positano, mostly in converted townhouses on the main drags of Via Cristofo Colombo and Viale Pasitea. Covo de Saraceni is a longtime favorite for its position perched above the water close to the beach action.
Praiano: A 20-minute drive or two-hour hike along the coast, pretty Praiano has many cliffside hotels and B&Bs, most with unfussy rooms but spectacular views across the sparkling sea. Hotel Margherita is popular for its affordable rooms and outdoor swimming pool with a knockout sea view.
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Local bus: If you get tired from all the steep stairs, Positano’s distinctive orange public bus goes in a loop around the main roads. You can buy a ticket on board.
Regional bus: The most affordable way to get to Positano from a nearby hub, the SITA bus will take you from Sorrento to Positano in around 45 minutes for under five Euros.
Ferry: There’s a seasonal daytime ferry from Amalfi, Sorrento, Salerno, and Naples.
Taxi: Know that taxis are expensive and hard to flag down in Positano, so plan to book in advance through your hotel or local operator.
Rentals: The coastal roads along the Amalfi coast and in the hillside towns are not for the faint of heart, with many blind corners and steep switchbacks. Parking is also a problem in the compact town, so plan on taking public transport and pre-arranged taxis before booking a car or scooter.
