Time travel is entirely possible. You just have to be willing to drive about six hours to experience it.
Nestled in the Sierra Nevada mountain range, amid modern-day Mono County, sits the former bustling town of Bodie, a community once alive with excitement thanks to a swell of 8,000 residents who flocked to the dusty desert community in hopes of striking it rich, just as W.S. Body, the town’s namesake miner, did in the 1850s when he found gold. And for a short while, they all did, thriving off what the land had to offer. But as quickly as the riches came, they went, leaving Bodie a ghost town by the turn of the century. Yet rather than let Bodie go the way of the gold rush, California state legislators decided to preserve it just as it was left by its residents for generations to come, creating the Bodie State Historic Park in 1962.
Today, you can walk down its Main Street, through its alleys, and peer into windows to see exactly how the last person in town left it. But it didn’t stay that way on its own. Instead, it’s perhaps the most well-maintained ghost town in America, thanks to a small but dedicated staff of park employees and volunteers.
“I worked for 10 years for the maintenance team as a seasonal employee,” Dr. Dydia DeLyser, who wrote her doctoral dissertation on Bodie and now serves on the Bodie Foundation’s board, says. “That means cleaning the toilets, taking out the trash, and repairing all the buildings.”
DeLyser has intimate knowledge of the inner workings of Bodie, no doubt, but just because she knows every nut and bolt of the place doesn’t mean the magic of this ghost town is lost on her.
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“When you’re in the town site, the only thing you can see is the town site. You can’t see the rim of the Sierras. I mean, you can see the sun and the stars and the moon. You cannot see the world outside of the town site because you’re down in this little bowl. It’s a very all-encompassing environment and world that becomes very compelling when you live there,” DeLyser said. She added, “Every time I leave, I feel like I’m leaving home. And I’m always sad. I do feel profoundly at home there.”
As for why others get that same sense, DeLyser explains it’s because we can see so much of ourselves there.
“The remains of Bodie offer an image of a middle-class town with a lot of white-collar jobs. You have the butcher and the banker and stuff like that,” she says. “They’re seeing the lives of people like their own. They’re connecting their lives here in the present to the lives of people in Bodie in the past.” she pauses before adding, “They don’t just see it. They don’t just read it. They feel it.”
For this edition of the WeekEnder, we’re taking you through and around the town of Bodie, so you can experience this feeling firsthand. And while DeLyser says she’s never experienced a ghost sighting in this ghost town, we thought it was perfect for spooky season. No doubt, you’ll catch a glimpse of a life gone by.
Things to do
Explore the well-preserved landmarks both in and out of Bodie.
Getting to Bodie is as much about the journey as it is the destination. The “Bodie Experience,” as DeLyser calls it, begins with the scenic drive into town, which give panoramic vistas thanks to the rolling hills surrounding the ghost town, before dipping into the bowl to find Bodie. Give yourself plenty of time to get there, as you’ll inevitably want to stop over and over again to snap photos.
While DeLyser hasn’t seen any ghosts of her own, she still won’t dismiss others’ experiences in town. And that’s why, if you’re into the paranormal, you should try its ghost walks. The park remains open after public hours (until 10 p.m.) specifically for the walks to provide an even spookier environment. While 2023’s walks have already been completed, you can always sign up for one of the four exclusive walks in 2024.
See Bodie in its best light with a Twilight Tour of the town. The two-hour tours take place from 5-7 p.m. and offer insights into the town’s history thanks to the tour’s expert guides. And as a bonus, you get to spend an entire hour in the park after its general admission closing, making the photo ops all the better.
Have one more other-worldly experience on our way in or out of town by stopping at Mono Lake to view the Tufa Towers. The limestone formations, sculpted by Mother Nature over several centuries, rise out of the water and reach toward the heavens above. The formations, created by the unique combination of freshwater springs and alkaline lake water coming together, have become an important habitat for owls and nesting osprey, which you can view right from the lake’s shoreline.
Make a pit stop on your way to or from Bodie at Mammoth Lakes for a hike through its lush forest. Crystal Lake Trail provides a fantastic view from the top and a stellar opportunity to view California’s fall foliage throughout October and November. The out-and-back trail takes around 90 minutes to complete and is listed as “moderately difficult,” so make sure to take your time, both for your health and for all the vistas along the way.
Where to eat
Dig into classics around this ghost town.
Start your morning with something so rich and delicious, it’ll make you want to make this bakery your base camp. High Sierra Bakery offers freshly baked goods each morning, which you can enjoy in-house or on the road to Bodie, including flaky croissants, decadent donuts, and some ooey-gooey pastries that pair perfectly with its equally freshly made coffee.
Albert’s is a one-stop shop for all your lunchtime needs. The shop offers a wide array of sandwiches filled with a variety of meats, cheeses, and veggies. That includes its tri-tip sandwiches, grilled cheese paninis, and homemade prime rib. You can also request to build your own sandwich creation at the counter too, or get one of its grab-n-go options out of the fridge.
Those in the mood for a more relaxed dining adventure can park themselves at Burger Barn, a low-key, downhome burger haven. Here, guests can order up thick, juicy burgers made from locally sourced ingredients, as well as classic diner options like its pulled BBQ pork sandwich. It also offers meat-free burgers and sandwiches to accommodate everyone in your group. Just make sure to get a side of crispy fries with whatever you order.
Mingle with area locals at Rhino Bar and Grill, an all-American eatery that will leave you fully satisfied. The restaurant’s menu offers a good mix, including sizzling steaks, loaded baked potatoes, burgers, and massive salads. The bar also boasts a solid list of beers on tap and in bottles and a lengthy list of cocktails and spirits.
Before you leave Bodie behind for good, stop in at Jolly Kone for one last sweet moment. The nostalgia-filled diner is another excellent spot to grab a bite, but it’s the spot to snag a cone. The diner offers classic soft serve flavors in sugar and wafer cones, or for a more decadent experience, travelers can order a chocolate-dipped cone with a mix of chocolate and vanilla swirl because … why not?
Places to stay
Sleep tight in these vintage-inspired stays.
Are you the type of person who can’t start your day until you’ve had a cup of coffee? Then, El Mono Motel is the right spot for you. The charming motel comes with just 11 adorably decorated rooms that make you feel right at home and offer every guest organic coffee in the morning while sitting outside in its lush garden space. Pair it with one of the motel’s pastries for sale in its cafe for the perfect way to say “hello” to the day.
Go to sleep to the soothing sounds of the Walker River just outside your room at the aptly named Walker River Lodge. While every room here is spacious, make sure to request a riverside room to enhance the experience. The lodge is also family-friendly, and that includes your four-legged family members too, as it comes with a gated play area for pups. It also offers a BBQ area, pool, and hot tub, rounding out all the amenities you’d ever need for a trip to Bodie.
The Silver Maple Inn offers a blend of vintage charm and contemporary luxury. Built in the 1930s, the hotel maintains much of its motor inn edge, including its blazing red neon sign out front, but now also includes rooms with white-washed furnishings and massive picture windows overlooking its pretty courtyard filled with maple trees. The Silver Maple Inn also encourages its guests to get out and explore the neighborhood via its Yellow Bicycle borrowing program, which is free to guests.
Travelers looking for the full Bodie experience can book an overnight stay at The Bodie Hotel, an accommodation that once sat in the town of Bodie but was moved more than 100 years ago to neighboring Bridgeport. The boutique hotel offers seven quaint rooms decked out in vintage velvet wallpaper and antique furnishings, giving all the right vibes for a Bodie getaway. You can even visit the hotel’s original parlor to stage a few photos for the ‘gram.
To maximize your time at Bodie, stay as close as possible with an overnight at the Virginia Creek Settlement, which sits less than 30 minutes from the park. “Quaint” doesn’t really cut it for this adorable spot. The accommodation offers motel-style rooms, a tented cabin, and even a few covered wagons for guests to sleep in, which really do make the entire “gold mining ghost town” experience all the more authentic.
