2 perfect days in Hanoi

Hanoi may be more than 1,000 years old, but it has a buzz that you’ll pick up on right away. From the crack of dawn, locals are out practicing tai chi and laughter yoga (yes, it’s really a thing) around the lakes. Throughout the day they chat over iced coffee with milk at sidewalk cafes, and after the sun goes down they drink locally brewed beer at their favorite watering holes. Hanoians take pride in their legendary food scene, so they devote a great deal of time to slurping noodles in street kitchens and checking out the newest restaurants.

Two days is just enough time to take all of this in, as well as duck into some of the city’s centuries-old temples and soak in its complex culture and history at the museums. If you’re fine on your feet, the first day is entirely walkable. Plan on a few taxi rides on the second. Tripadvisor ratings and reviews back up all our suggestions, ensuring that you’ll fall for Vietnam’s capital city just like countless others.

On your first morning, work up an appetite with a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake, in the center of the city. This fable-filled body of water—said to be home to a turtle god—is enveloped by drooping trees, gardens in full bloom, and storied relics like Ngoc Son Temple. Wake up early enough and observe tai chi practitioners, laughter yogis, and other dedicated Hanoians going about their morning routines.

Forgo the hotel renditions of Vietnamese favorites like pho and banh mi and opt for the real thing instead. Breakfast on pho bo (beef noodle soup) at Pho Thin 1955 or banh cuon (wet rice pancakes) at Banh Cuon Nong. Both spots are a short stroll from the lake.

Follow breakfast with a Vietnamese iced coffee with milk in Hanoi’s French Quarter, which begins on the southern edge of Hoan Kiem Lake. For a streetside classic, try Café Mai, where you can also buy locally roasted beans. For something more refined, head to Habakuk. Both cafes are a 15-minute walk or five-minute taxi ride from the lake.

After you finish your coffee, explore Vietnamese culture and history through a different lens at the nearby Vietnamese Women’s Museum. Tripadvisor readers recommend the exhibit on the lives of female street vendors.

Walk 15 or 20 minutes north (or take a quick taxi ride) to the tangle of alleyways known as the Old Quarter. It’s the best part of the city to hunt for hidden boutiques, explore the markets, and sample the local cuisine. Getting lost in this pandemonium is part of the fun. As you wander around, look out for Bach Ma Temple, one of the oldest in the city. Inside is a statue of the white horse said to have chosen this spot for the city walls. The 19-century Ancient House, a merchant’s residence built around two courtyards, is also worth a look.

When you need to refuel, head to one of the more than 100 cafes scattered around the neighborhood. (Better yet, sign up for a food tour. There are some good options below.) For egg coffee, a Hanoi specialty that uses egg yolk in place of milk, try Café Giang. For coconut coffee, another local favorite, head to Bancong, housed in a beautifully restored French mansion. For something a little stronger (don’t worry, it’s barely 3 percent alcohol), seek out a bia hoi (fresh beer) bar like Lan Chin.

Time for a breather. Take a 25-minute walk (or 10-minute taxi ride) northeast to Truc Bach Lake, in a neighborhood that is comparatively calm compared to the chaos of the Old Quarter. If you manage to get to Ngu Xa, a small islet near the lake’s eastern shore, before dark you can watch the sun as it sets over the water. Dine on pho cuon (spring rolls with stir-fried beef) and other local specialties at Pho Cuon 31.

Hanoi is not known for its pumping nightlife, but it does have an eclectic bar scene. With plenty of bia hoi bars, the Truc Bach neighborhood is a good place to jump in. Check out Lang Thang, a cheap and cheerful watering hole popular with young Hanoians. Another option is cocktails at Ma Xo, where you can enjoy lakeside seating.

On your second day you have time to explore farther afield. Jump in a cab after breakfast and head west to the Temple of Literature, about 10 minutes from Hoan Kiem Lake. This stately structure is close to 1,000 years old, making it one of Southeast Asia’s oldest universities. If the crimson gate looks familiar, it’s because it appears on the back of the 100,000 dong bill.

Hail another taxi for the 15-minute ride west to the Museum of Ethnology, one of Vietnam’s most compelling museums. You’ll find detailed exhibits on marriage ceremonies, funeral rites, and other cultural practices, as well as a multicolored array of traditional clothing. Outside there’s a garden with a dozen or so houses in various styles from around the country.

On your way back to the center of the city, stop at Cha Ca Anh Vu for fried fish with noodles, another specialty in Hanoi. Afterward, head to the walled complex known as the Imperial Citadel. ​​Here you can explore the different layers of Hanoi’s long history, from its feudal beginnings to the colonial period to the catastrophic war that divided the country. You’ll see an iconic flag tower, grand gates, colorful temples, and an underground military headquarters.

From the Imperial Citadel, it’s a 10-minute walk to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, which holds the body of modern Vietnam’s founding father. Entering the mausoleum isn’t easy—the chamber is usually closed to visitors, and when it’s open there are long lines—but the tomb is impressive from the outside, as are the stately colonial buildings that flank it.

Finish your trip where you started: in the streets surrounding Hoan Kiem Lake. There are plenty of eateries where you can sample modern Vietnamese fare. If your budget allows it, head to one of the city’s fine dining establishments like Chapter. Hanoi’s dining scene is becoming increasingly diverse, and Chef Quang Dung adds to the mix with a menu inspired by recipes from Vietnam’s more far-flung regions, like the northern mountains.

As a final hurrah, raise a glass at one (or several) of the city’s hidden speakeasies like Ne, which serves a pho-inspired cocktail.