The only-in-winter guide to Jackson, Wyoming

Jackson, WY—gateway to both Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks—is one of the coolest mountain towns in the West, a blend of rugged and ritzy where authentic cowboy culture sits alongside luxury hospitality, dining, and shopping. Anyone who’s been will tell you of the square’s four giant archways made of elk antlers, even more magical when dusted in snow. Its world-class ski mountain was on my devoted snowboarder husband’s bucket list for ages when we—along with our toddler daughter—finally booked a trip.

Anticipation was at an all-time high, and not only did the cowboy-cool aesthetic of Jackson, plus Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (the name of the ski mountain) live up to our expectations, they far exceeded them. We visited the historic hub for ranchers and trappers mid-week in early January 2023, which we found to be an excellent time to catch freshly fallen snow alongside relatively light crowds on the slopes and in town. Here’s what we loved.

I was well aware that Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, filled with black-diamond and double-black-diamond ski runs, is famously difficult. My husband insisted I would be fine—even flying solo, sans instructor. And he was right: it was the most fun I’ve ever had in snow, and I discovered a sense of liberation I hadn’t expected, especially as I gained confidence and ventured higher to slightly more challenging terrain.

Jackson Hole has tons of tough runs, but I studied the map ahead of time—and consulted ski patrol—to identify lifts like the Sweetwater Gondola and Teewinot Lift, which brought me to friendly green and blue slopes. I’d highly recommend that true beginners sign up for lessons with Mountain Sports School. The learning areas and bunny hills of the Kids Ranch were so gentle that even our toddler had a blast in her adorably tiny rental skis and helmet.

Nestled between two of America’s most spectacular national parks, Jackson is an amazing jumping-off point for slower-paced activities—namely, seeing the area’s remarkable wildlife in their natural habitats. We opted for Jackson Hole Eco Tour Adventures’ four-hour Sunset Wildlife Adventure and our guide, Laura, impressed us from the start as she passed on a fun word: “crepuscular,” which refers to animals most active during twilight hours. Over the tour, she bestowed fascinating history lessons, geology knowledge, wildlife factoids, and animal anecdotes all while expertly training the Swarovski spotting scope on bighorn sheep, elk, moose, and even a cute little orange fox, running zig-zags up a snowy hillside. As the sky turned candy pink, she drove us to view the most surreal panorama where the setting sun colored the rocky faces of the Teton Range. The experience was enchanting on every level.

A soak in the hotel’s large outdoor hot tub is guaranteed to eradicate any chill from a day on the mountain. Right off Jackson’s iconic Town Square, each floor also features a little bar with gratis granola, hot chocolate, and tea, all available to snag as we wished.

The term “modern American” does a disservice to the wildly creative dishes that emerge from The Kitchen’s kitchen—think mushroom ramen and a pork chop accented with tamarind. The cocktails, especially the Jalisco Junglebird with tequila, Aperol, passion fruit, and habanero, are delectable, too.

I love Lebanese food, and my heart was warmed by the cuisine at FIGS, where I ate my weight in exceptional hummus with fluffy pitas, fattoush salad and shawarma.

It doesn’t get more winter wonderland than a horse-drawn sleigh ride at this refuge, where thousands of elk—the country’s largest migrating herd—hunker down each winter.

Getting to meet the exuberant, super-cute Alaskan huskies and then climb inside the narrow sled to be pulled by them was a true highlight of our time in Jackson.

Advance bookings are necessary for a two-hour slot to soak in the steaming mineral-rich springs in this large protected park. Bring shoes that are easy to slip on and off and a towel or robe to stay warm between dips.