From art installations on a frozen lake to Norwegian ski-inspired sports.
There’s no denying that the park- and lake-filled Twin Cities are picture-perfect in the summer. Still, there’s a strong argument to be made that the way to truly get a glimpse of Minneapolis and St. Paul at their best is to visit during the winter. Despite the season’s frigid temperatures, which tend to keep travelers away, the challenges that come with living life at 20 degrees below zero showcase the ingenuity and resilience that characterize life in Minnesota.
When you visit the Twin Cities in the winter, you get a front-row seat to the way locals like me embrace the signature season together, brimming with a community spirit. To gain immediate street cred and local insight, all you have to do is mention the infamous 1991 Halloween Blizzard and brace yourself for the memories, opinions, and advice that follow. To help you get in the spirit of Minnesota winter, here are my cold-weather must-dos.
The quintessential winter activity: The Art Shanty Projects
Winter 2023 is the 20th anniversary of the Art Shanty Projects, a four-weekend experiential art installation held on the frozen waters of Minneapolis’ Bdé Umáŋ (Lake Harriet). Open on weekends from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. between January 20 to February 11 this year, the free annual event provides stipends to more than 150 artists to create public artwork and performances inspired by the pop-up ice fishing villages emblematic of the region.
The artists don’t have any specific regulations or building codes to follow, but they do have to factor in the unpredictability of the winter weather conditions—consider it part of the artistic process. And because the artists and the works they create change every year, each exhibit is a completely different experience. In 2023, the creative work will include community singalongs, a free store of gently used winter gear, a dance-filled Disco Inferno, and much more.
Climate change has forced the shanties onto shore for the last two years, but this year organizers are leaning into the challenge. Some shanties will—freezing temps permitting—be “traditional” structures hosted on the lake while others will be a modern interpretation kept on shore. Either way, there are two ramp entrances to the lake while ASL interpreters and audio describers are on hand to ensure that everyone can experience the ice house-inspired projects like the Close Knit Pavillion—a triangular wooden structure that visitors help complete with found materials—in all their glory.
Tip: Bring a thermos of your favorite warm drink along—it’ll help you stay toasty as you wander in and around the shanties.
The wild card: Take in a skijoring race—or try the sport yourself
Image: JMichl/Getty Images
Thanks in part to the area’s Norwegian heritage, Twin Cities residents are committed to getting outdoors even when it is practically arctic outside. The result is some particularly unique outdoor activities. Take skijoring—originating in Norway, the sport features a skier pulled by a dog or a small horse and is essentially cross-country skiing with an assist from a four-legged friend.
There are two ways to experience skijoring in the Twin Cities: try it yourself or watch the annual Skijor Loppet, one of the largest, rowdiest skijoring races in North America. Held in January or February, the city’s Bde Maka Ska lake becomes an urban skijoring venue hosting 3k, 5k, and 10k races for humans (and dogs) of all abilities. The event draws upwards of 10,000 participants and nearly 40,000 spectators, who take full advantage of the warming tents. There’s also plenty of eating and drinking options (think hot cocoa and chili), alongside Swedish lawn games like kubb.
If you’re hoping to take the reins, K9 Powered Sports and Twin Cities Dog Powered Sports Club offer the lessons and advice necessary for getting started. They’ll help you get situated with the right gear for both you and your dog, as well as teach you to equip Fido with the right commands and training before you hit the snow.
Tip: All of the races end at The Trailhead, an amenity-filled recreational building and a great spot to be for viewers (especially those with kids) who want easy access to the bathrooms and concessions.
Other winter spots you won’t want to miss
Walk or cross-country ski through trails lit by 1,200 luminaries and decorated with ice sculptures on Lake of The Isles each February. Heads up: If you plan on skiing, bring your own gear.
This dog-friendly hotel, its Tullibee Restaurant, and roster of amenities—including a sauna and outdoor rooftop hot tub—are inspired by Nordic and “up north” Minnesota traditions. It’s a great place to heat up after a day in the elements.
This free celebration in downtown St. Paul’s Rice Park has been going strong since 1886. The multi-week carnival’s events span from ice fishing tournaments and ice carving competitions to a Cat Fanciers’ Association champion and household cat show (yes, a show simply highlighting beautiful, fluffy cats).
Tucked into the Rand Tower Hotel, this tropical-plant-filled bar has a menu full of French island rhums made from cane juice rather than molasses—I recommend enjoying your cocktail at the seasonal ice bar that’s kept cozy with fire pits and heat lamps.
This upscale steakhouse offers a burger- and sandwich-focused menu, but your best bet is a wagyu beef butter burger bursting with caramelized onions on the heated, dog-friendly beer garden. Open year-round—and often the scene of live music—it’s a welcoming spot when you don’t want to head (completely) indoors.
Open daily, this North Minneapolis park has two separate areas: one specifically for sledding, and another for tubing. There are plenty of unofficial hills around town, but this one has some of the best runs you can find.