Travel

The only-in-winter guide to Montreal

From urban cross-country skiing to syrupy-sweet treats.

When I moved to Montreal more than a decade ago, I admittedly did so without doing much research into the city’s climate. I’m originally from Nova Scotia and didn’t anticipate Montreal winters would be all that different from what I was used to. Let’s just say I really should have listened to my grandmother when she told me to pack proper snow boots.

Montreal was made for winter devotees. The joie de vivre becomes cozy during the winter: Alfresco wine dates become mulled wine by the fire; music festivals become, well, music festivals with hand-warmers and toques. Despite the abundance of snowfall and temperatures dropping to nearly -30 degrees Fahrenheit, the city doesn’t just make the most of the cold winter months—it becomes alive in a whole new way.

If you’re planning a trip to Montreal in winter—here’s what you’ll want to see and do to take advantage of the winter chill.

The quintessential winter activity: Skate, snowshoe, and après-ski at Parc Mont Royal

Parc Mont Royal is a must-visit at any time of the year—but it’s particularly worth the trip in the wintertime when the entire park becomes a massive stage for snow sports and outdoor activities for people of all ages and athletic abilities.

The sprawling park has more than 692 acres of public area to explore with pretty much every kind of winter activity available, from snowshoeing and cross-country skiing trails to an ice-skating rink and multiple cafes for those who want to just sit and enjoy a hot drink while overlooking the city (check out the Mount Royal Chalet next to the observation deck for coffee with a view of the city skyline).

The park is set right in the middle of Montreal, which makes it easily accessible from nearly anywhere you may be staying in thanks to the network of paths and trails that lead out into the Plateau, Mile End, Centreville, and Westmount neighborhoods. Keep in mind that the park is massive and not all activities are going to be within walking distance; the park is also not accessible to cars save for the parking lot by Beaver Lake (which is also where the skating rink is located). To make the most of your time, use a map to plan out the day before hopping onto the network of trails.

The wild card: Unwinding at Bota Bota Spa Sur L’eau

Two women relaxing in hot tub at Bota Bota Spa Sur’Leau

Scandinavian influence rules at Bota Bota Spa Sur L’eau; the floating Nordic spa in the heart of Old Montreal is an essential stop for anyone looking to lean into the coziness of the winter season while taking in the sights and sounds of Montreal’s old city. While Bota Bota is a full-service spa with treatments ranging from Swedish massages and body wraps to specialized facials and exfoliation brush treatments, I recommend opting for the classic water circuit experience if you really want to reap the benefits of visiting the floating spa in the wintertime.

The indoor/outdoor water circuit uses natural elements to achieve the desired effect of the hot/cold/rest thermotherapy. You’ll begin by dipping into one of the saunas or steam baths (I love the outdoor bath overlooking the glistening skyline) before plunging into a cold bath or shower. Yes—you really will have to take a cold plunge outdoors in -30 degree weather, but the “buzz” you get afterward is worth the few seconds of shock. Then you’re free to relax in one of the dozens of indoor relaxation rooms tucked throughout the spa. I’m particularly fond of the net swing chairs that line the windows overlooking the Saint Lawrence River.

Other things you won’t want to miss while visiting

Luminothérapie at Places de Artes in Montreal

The early sunset can be tough in the winter months—which is why the city started offering free Luminothérapie art exhibits every winter within the Place des Artes. This year will mark the 13th edition of the public art event which features colorful and interactive light installations designed to help beat the winter blues.

Helmed by Joe Beef alum Vanya Filipovic and Marc-Olivier Frappier, this award-winning Mile End restaurant offers an incredible example of Québécois fare including a beyond decadent take on the classic French croque monsieur—the croque pétoncle made with Quebecois scallops in lieu of ham.

The 200-foot Ferris wheel in the Old Port is a relatively new, but welcomed addition to the city’s skyline. It operates all winter long, allowing you to kick back in a heated cabin and take in the winter wonderland from the sky.

Spend the day outside at the Montréal Botanical Garden and bask in the winter scenes. The first blanket of snow completely transforms this outdoor museum, giving visitors a chance to take in the native and international flora in a whole new way.

Visit a cabane à sucre.

The cabane à sucre—or sugar shack—is a timeless Québécois tradition that honors the province’s maple syrup industry. Head to one of the dozens of sugar shacks just outside of the city (the classic Sucrerie de la Montagne is just off the island) to experience a decadent maple feast or pop into one of the local markets to sample the tire d’érable (maple syrup poured onto fresh snow and rolled up into a lollipop-style treat).

The Notre Dame Basilica is a Montreal hot spot year-round, but it’s worth carving out time to visit during the AURA experience. The multisensory performance invites visitors to discover the history of the basilica through a series of breathtaking light installations that illuminate the church’s interior.

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